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Coat of a Different Flavor Perks Up Winter Chicken Dishes

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It's winter, your chicken needs a coat. That doesn't mean you need to settle for what would be the equivalent of sporting an old, drab flannel or wool coat. Cut your chicken's covering from a more innovative, interesting cloth. Best of all, these can be snap-second decisions that take barely any time.

I found this to be true recently while rummaging through my pantry looking for something I could crush and roll my egg-dipped skinless chicken breast fillets in before cooking in a tiny amount of olive oil. I dared to use a box of Cheez-It baked snack crackers. It drew raves.

I was soon surprised to see that Gourmet magazine featured a similar delicious recipe on the magazine's site at epicurious.com. The recipe is below.

No wonder such usage is drawing attention. Chips and crackers like these come in myriad of new flavors, which would translate well to flavoring dishes. Cheez-Its, for instance, has Pepperjack, Hot 'n' Spicy, Colby, Swiss, Parmesan and many others. Sun Chips Garden Salsa flavor is a whole-grain dynamic choice. Doritos Cool Ranch also does the trick.

There are lots of additional detours from the plain breadcrumb highway when it comes to breading chicken. Experiment with any of your favorite breads. Try this recipe that definitely makes the most of rye bread. It also benefits from a mustard sauce that makes it all reminiscent of eating a gourmet sandwich on rye.

CRISPY CHICKEN WITH RYE BREAD AND MUSTARD SAUCE

1 loaf (about 1 pound) stale rye bread

1 1 / 2 tablespoons caraway seeds

4 teaspoons kosher salt

2 1 / 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

8 small boneless, skinless chicken thighs

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 large eggs, beaten

3 tablespoons expeller-pressed vegetable oil

Mustard sauce:

1 / 4 cup good-quality Dijon mustard

1 / 4 cup chicken stock or water

Big pinch kosher salt

Yields 4 servings.

Remove crust from bread and tear bread into bite-sized chunks. Grind chunks in batches in a coffee grinder or food processor until it is more or less uniformly ground but still coarse. Spread the crumbs on a baking sheet and let them dry out at room temperature for at least 2 hours or put them in a 250 F oven for 20 minutes. Measure out 6 cups of crumbs into a large bowl, and add the caraway seeds, 1 teaspoon of the salt and 1 teaspoon of the pepper.

Heat one or more large cast-iron skillets over medium-high heat.

Season the chicken with 2 1 / 2 teaspoons of the salt and 1 teaspoon of the pepper. Mix the flour with the remaining 1 / 2 teaspoon salt and 1 / 2 teaspoon pepper. Dip each piece of chicken in the flour, shake off any excess and then dip in the beaten egg. Make sure each piece gets thoroughly covered with egg. Dredge chicken pieces one by one in the breadcrumbs, shaking off any excess.

Swirl 3 tablespoons oil into the hot skillet. Lay as many pieces of chicken in the pan as will comfortably fit, and lower the heat. Cook, rotating the chicken and the pan frequently, for 4 to 5 minutes, until the chicken is crispy, golden brown and cooked through. If at any point the pan seems too dry and the breadcrumbs start to burn, add a little more oil. Serve with mustard sauce.

To prepare mustard sauce: Whisk together the mustard, stock and salt, and heat in a small nonreactive saucepan until just hot.

-"Cooking in the Moment: A Year of Seasonal Recipes" by Andrea Reusing (Clarkson-Potter, $35)

CHEDDAR CHICKEN TENDERS WITH WILTED SPINACH

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1 / 2 cups Cheez-It crackers (Cheddar flavor)

3 / 4 teaspoon black pepper

1 1 / 4 pound chicken tenders (not coated or cooked)

1 / 3 cup Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 (12- to 16-oz.) bag baby of spinach

1 / 4 teaspoon salt

Yields 4 servings.

Put oven rack in lower third of oven and preheat oven to 475 F. Brush a large shallow baking pan with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil.

Pulse crackers in a food processor until finely ground, then transfer to a wide shallow bowl and stir in 1 / 2 teaspoon pepper. Toss tenders with mustard in a large bowl until coated, then dredge — two at a time — in cracker crumbs until evenly coated. Arrange tenders in a oiled pan in one layer, without crowding. Bake, turning over once, until golden brown, about 15 minutes total.

Meanwhile, melt butter in a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot over moderate heat, then cook spinach - covered — turning with tongs, until spinach is just wilted, about 2 minutes. Stir in salt and remaining 1 / 4 teaspoon pepper, then serve spinach with chicken.

-epicurious.com

Photo courtesy of epicurious.com

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "Cooks' Books" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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