Spring's arrival on the calendar isn't always an instant blessing, as some areas of the country still suffering from winter's rage can attest. But it arrived in Sonoma County, Calif., with cool breezes, a full moon, warm afternoons and the promise of good news: We'll have more white wines to choose from than ever before.

The red wines that warmed us through the last quarter and continue to find their place on the tables of most wine lovers soon will be joined by fresh, young white wines from the 2006 and 2007 vintages. These wines should be a great benefit for the meals of spring, notably the daylight-saving-time meals on the patio.

From this point on well into summer, we'll see many of the newcomers hitting store shelves in approximately the sequence in which they're best consumed: youngest and freshest to more mature and complex.

Watch for these wines:

— 2007 Chenin Blanc: Not many California producers still make wine from this varietal. We'll also see some 2007's from South Africa, where the grape flourishes, as well some 2006 wines from Vouvray, the French district in which Chenin Blanc reigns. Best bet: 2007 Dry Creek Vineyard, about $13.

— 2007 Italian Pinot Grigio and California Pinot Gris: This light-flavored white wine, often used to great advantage as an aperitif wine, isn't usually as "serious" as are the 2006 Pinot Gris wines from Oregon, which are strikingly interesting but usually priced a bit higher. Best bet: 2006 King Estate of Oregon, about $15.

— 2007 Sauvignon Blanc: Often scented like grass or hay, sometimes with citrus scents, the best of these will accompany a wide variety of seafood and rarely are priced above $20 a bottle. Best bet: 2006 St. Supery, about $18.

— 2007 Dry Riesling: Australia leads the way with these wines, but Washington, New York and Oregon all make stellar dry wines from this German grape. Dry Riesling can be a brilliant accompaniment to Chinese and Japanese foods, and can substitute for Chardonnay with more delicate dishes. Most California versions are off-dry and better with Thai food or sipping on a patio.

The best will age handsomely. Best bet: anything from New York's Finger Lakes or 2007 Peter Lehmann of Australia, about $12.

— 2007 Gewurztraminer: California, France's Alsace and Alto Adige in Italy all will deliver some fresh, delightfully spicy white wines with which Thai food is most attractive. Best bet: 2005 Trimbach of Alsace, about $17.

— 2006 California Chardonnay: From the second of two consecutive cool vintages, this Burgundian grape promises to deliver great flavors and complexities with a wide array of richer seafood dishes, notably those with cream or butter. Best bet: 2006 Wild Horse, about $17.

— 2005 Semillon: A personal favorite and a wine that demands a lot of bottle aging. Semillon isn't made by many producers, so those who still make them (including Fenestra, Fortitude, Chateau Ste. Michelle) do so superbly. They are joined by many wineries that make a White Meritage, in which Sauvignon Blanc is blended with Semillon — these include St. Supery, Cosentino and Volker Eisele. And the famed Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc is usually close to 25 percent Semillon. Best bet: 2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle, about $9.

— 2006 Viognier and White Rhone blends: Try Viognier by itself or blended with Rousanne and Marsanne. These complex wines can be a bit on the soft side, but when they are made with sufficient acidity, they can work nicely with complex foods. Best bet: 2006 Bridlewood, about $25.

— Rose: Yes, a pink wine, but one that most people treat as if it were a white on steroids. Made from all kinds of red grapes, such as Syrah, Carignane, Grenache, Zinfandel and even Cabernet, this medium-weight wine is being made dry by more and more wineries. In that style, it's an all-purpose wine that works with a wide array of foods. Best bet: 2006 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare, about $22.

Wine of the Week: 2006 Snoqualmie Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($7) — A pale, clean and uncomplicated white wine with attractive melony fruit and a soft entry for pairing with lighter-weight seafood dishes. Often seen at close to $5 a bottle.

Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County, Calif. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate Web page at www.creators.com.

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