I think of Sauvignon Blanc the way I think of an eccentric relative who gets less respect that he deserves.

He is underappreciated because he is so odd, but I have never lost my love for his erratic, persnickety behavior. He's like your nutty uncle who comes over occasionally, bringing with him odd and eclectic gifts and bizarre witticisms that don't make much sense until you think about them.

Oddly enough, sales of Sauvignon Blanc are growing to the point where it is one of the few grape varieties in California that are in demand. And the journey has been fascinating.

Sauvignon Blanc started out life as a wild-eyed wine that often exhibited exotic aromas — not as "fruity" as much as vegetative. The wine showed signs of grass clippings; when grown in the wrong climate it had more bell pepper, asparagus and even jalapeno scents. Others were less kind. This is not the wine we know today.

There were fewer than 1,000 acres of the grape planted in California when Robert Mondavi left his family's Charles Krug Winery in 1965 and made the wine in 1966 at his own winery in the Napa Valley. He called it Fumé Blanc because he believed it wouldn't sell under its own name.

See what sort of disrespect this grape has suffered?

In the early years, the wine was called Poor Man's Chardonnay, but it has nothing do with Chardonnay in aroma or taste. In fact, this world traveler has roots in the Loire Valley and Graves and flourishes in South Africa and Chile. I have also seen grand examples from New York, Virginia and a number of other states.

The vegetative characteristics of the wine were eventually seen as too strong, so vine scientists figured out a way to grow the grape to tame "the veggies."

That left the wine emasculated. By the mid-1980s, most California Sauvignon Blancs were wimpy and had none of the vibrancy or verve once associated with the classic style of wine that was pioneered in 1972 by Dave Stare at Dry Creek Vineyards in Sonoma County.

In 1990, I wrote an article about this for The Los Angeles Times in which I decried the lack of varietal character in SB. A clever editor used the headline, "The Blanding of Sauvignon Blanc." Indeed, that's what was happening.

An early proponent of more fruit and lower alcohol in Sauvignon Blanc was Fritz Meyer when he was making Husch Sauvignon Blanc that emphasized melon-y fruit. Meyer harvested Husch's La Ribera Vineyard fruit early and made a lower-alcohol style of wine that remains a delight.

But few wineries did much with the variety, so Sauvignon Blanc moped along until the late 1990s, when the world got another lesson in perseverance.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, planted first in 1973, began to become recognized for a rollicking new style of wine that featured fruit and nothing else. The wine was assertive — grassy and gooseberry-like in aroma. And unlike in Graves, it didn't need Semillon to hold up its end of the bargain.

So California SB grape growing changed again to emphasize more of the greenish fruit.

In 1995, California had 7,500 acres of Sauvignon Blanc, but the New Zealand style quickly gained popularity and the consumer responded. Today, we're approaching three times that total in vine acreage and sales are sailing.

Among the best Sauvignon Blancs being made today are from St. Supery, Geyser Peak, Dry Creek, Husch and many more. At lower price points, I love Kendall-Jackson, Fetzer and Sutter Home.

For the most part, the styles are related to where the grapes grow. The Robert Mondavi Winery continues to make top-flight Napa Sauvignon Blancs. A recent success that's barrel fermented comes from Rochioli. Then there's the long-aging style of Fred Brander in Santa Ynez Valley.

Sauvignon Blanc is still one of my favorite white wines, and I'm thrilled the Kiwis saved this grape for future generations. We'll have more about the New Zealand style in an upcoming article.

Wine of the Week: 2007 Coldstream Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Yarra Valley ($15) — From one of the cooler regions in Australia, this Sauvignon Blanc is delightfully scented half way between California melon and Loire Valley minerals. Dry and yet still rich enough to serve with most seafood.

Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County, Calif. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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