California has been the nation's leader in wine production for so long, and with such volume, that it seems as if no one else counts.

With more than 90 percent of the nation's wine production, and with its most famous regions such as Napa Valley and Sonoma County, not to mention Santa Barbara, Mendocino and Paso Robles, the Golden State dwarfs the other 49 states in most categories. Needless to say, the achievements of other tiny wine regions almost never make it to the radar screen.

Yet when you look closer, many of the other wine regions are now making some spectacular wines that are gaining in image from a quality standpoint. What's fascinating is that many of the wines of these obscure regions can be far better than any of the supercilious comments you see about them in glossy magazines aimed at perpetuating the old myths.

Two states, Washington and Oregon, have long been credited as successes, but in my view, not for the right reasons.

Washington: Rightly praised for its great Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots, the state certainly can do those well. But in the last decade, its greatest strength has been with Riesling, from dry all the way to dessert styles.

Oregon: Its Pinot Noir has gained wide praise, but the truly great Oregon Pinot Blancs, Rieslings, and Pinot Gris have always, unfortunately, taken a subservient role.

So which other states are adding to this national diversity in wine drama? A book could be written about this, and in fact the late Leon Adams pioneered this area of vinous literature with his "Wines of America," now sadly out of print.

A column this short can't do justice to the greatness I see emanating from elsewhere, but here is a snapshot look:

New York: With four distinct wine regions, the Empire State produces a wide range of stellar wines, from the Merlots and Chardonnays of Long Island to the excellent French-American hybrids of the Hudson Valley.

But by far the most exciting wine in New York is its dry and off-dry Riesling from literally dozens of wineries in the picturesque Finger Lakes. Now selling so fast it's hard for wineries to produce enough for the demand, New York Riesling's success portends potential for this variety in the coming decade.

New York also produces an astonishing array of superb "other" wines, including wines from native American as well as hybrid grape varieties.

Michigan: Here again, Riesling leads the pack, and with some drama. Wines from the Old Mission Peninsula have won major awards and gold medals at California wine competitions, and demand is pushing prices to levels Michiganders never imagined.

But other grapes, such as Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir, also have shown great potential, and that has spurred winery development. Moreover, cherry wines are more popular than ever!

Virginia: Thomas Jefferson's famed failed ventures as a grape grower and winemaker here have, two centuries later, been vindicated with some of the most exciting wines in the nation.

Made in a more reined-in style than California's full-blown, concentrated and powerful red wines, the reds of Virginia are led by two other Bordeaux grapes. Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc now both make exceptional red wines, while the Rhone white Viognier, the French/Italian star Pinot Gris, and Jurancon favorite Petit Manseng all seem to thrive here.

Wines of the Dominion State are getting far too good for the prices they carry!

Missouri: Winter weather that is so brutal to vines that precludes the growing of French grapes has meant that Show-Me residents must grow special cultivars. And my, have they!

With superb French-American hybrids Vignoles (a floral, pineapple-y white) and Seyval leading the way, Missouri wineries have developed a following for their distinctive wines. A recent addition to the scene is Norton — a native American vine that yields a near-black wine with dramatic potential.

We have no space left for the excellence of Ohio Riesling, Wisconsin Foch, Rhode Island Gewurztraminer, New Mexico sparkling and red wines, or the great variety coming out of Texas. Even Georgia, Indiana, New Jersey, Pennsylvania and Colorado are making their own unique statements.

With each of the 50 states now having at least one commercial winery, and with consumers slowly educating themselves to their local wines, alternatives to California wines are surfacing in places some people didn't know existed.

California remains the national leader in volume and quality, but the wine excitement being generated in places like Barboursville, Va.; Hermann, Mo.; Prairie du Sac, Wis; and Jamesport, N.Y., isn't to be ignored.

Wine of the Week: 2006 Brandborg Or Blanc, Oregon ($14): This delightful summer-sipping wine from a winery in Oregon's Umpqua Valley is an absolute delight. Blended from Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris and with just a trace of sugar, it's spicy and truly tasty. Try with Asian food or just sip on a hot day. Best ordered from the winery: 345 First Street, Elkton, Ore., 97436; 541-584-2870.

Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County, Calif. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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