A growing awareness of chemical use in our food supply has, over the last decade, prompted greater in interest in organic fruits, vegetables and other produce staples.

The same cannot be said for wine, because in order to make one that is organic under present regulations, the use of organically grown grapes in and of itself is not enough.

For a wine to be called organic, it must adhere to the rules of the U.S. Tax and Trade Bureau (which regulates the wine industry), as well as the Food and Drug Administration's National Organic Program. The agencies require that in order for any winemakers to call their wine "organic," it must contain no more than 10 parts per million of sulfites.

And it's well-known that wine with that low a level of sulfites would soon be ruined and become undrinkable.

Sulfites have been used to stabilize wine for hundreds of years, and it remains the only additive that can keep a wine sound for more than a few weeks. The use of sulfites in wine isn't controversial: it's been proven safe for humans. I'm unaware of a single case of sulfite reaction from wine ever being reported.

So although we have very few organic wines, the growing of grapes using organic methods (with no chemical impact) is an increasingly popular trend.

Still, those who support organic grape farming admit that it's not always feasible to switch over. For one thing, if Farmer A stops using pesticides or herbicides but his neighbor continues to use them, chemical drift can be a problem. Farmer A's vineyard can easily become contaminated.

Moreover, switching to organic farming calls for grape growers to pay a lot more hands-on attention to the vines. So although it might cost less to farm organically (no dollars spent on chemicals), it usually costs more in labor to deal with problems that arise.

And what happens when an emergency situation arises that threatens to wipe out an entire vintage? Organic farmers admit their hands are tied; they have little recourse but to watch Mother Nature wreck their plans.

As a result of this, a coalition of nearly seven dozen California wineries and grape growers has adopted a program called Sustainable Winegrowing, which is described as environmentally friendly.

A code drawn up by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance has numerous guidelines and strict rules for practicing sustainability.

The major difference here is those who are growing grapes sustainably may resort to use of chemicals in emergency situations without risking the loss of a certification, since there is none for sustainability.

Gaining a certified organic status calls for adhering to a zero-tolerance policy on chemical use — which is one reason that only 8,000 of California's more than half a million wine grapes are certified organic.

Still, there are a lot more organic farmers in California than those that actually have the certification. And all of the organic farmers with whom I've spoken agree that minimal impact on the land is only one of many reasons for obtaining it.

Another reason, say organic farmers, is their soils are healthier and more "alive" with beneficial critters that make for healthier vines, thus healthier grapes, which can result in better wine.

The largest brand dedicated to organically grown grapes is Brown-Forman's Bonterra, affiliated with Fetzer Vineyards in Mendocino County. The company switched over most of its vineyards to organic practices some 20 years ago — and its wines, made by winemaker Bob Blue, are stellar.

The sustainable winegrowing people staged a press event in Sonoma County recently to highlight that they'll be celebrating Earth Day on April 20, and they hailed the increasing awareness of farmers, winemakers and consumers in going green.

Lessening the chemical impact in vineyards is a trend that's growing.

Wine of the Week: 2007 Bonterra Rose, Mendocino ($13) — A superb wild cherry, watermelon and spice aroma makes the wine seem as if it's going to be sweet. But it is totally dry, and a perfect accompaniment to rich seafood (such as salmon) or light beef dishes. The wine is being shipped to market the first week of April. A don't-miss-it wine from organically grown grapes!

Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County, Calif. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate Web page at www.creators.com.

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