Tossing steaks on the coals is the ultimate goal of the summer day or weekend cookout. But choosing the wines, though it seems simple (dark red for the steak), entails a number of side issues.

Like side dishes.

No one eats just steak at these parties. The patio shindig starts with chips and dips, continues with nuts and crackers and cheese, and olives, and finger foods, and bruschetta and lahvosh sandwiches, hummus, and cole slaw, cherry tomatoes, broccoli and carrots, and caviar and sausages, and I haven't even mentioned my ex-mother-in-law's pickled onions.

So, let's see. The wine. Right. Uh.

Wait. Beer! Sure, that's the ticket. Oh, but not that domestic stuff that has all the flavor of well water. Best bets might be Pilsner Urquell, or Samuel Smith's India Pale Ale, or a truly esoteric favorite, such as Duvel Belgian Ale.

Since I live in northern California, I can easily get the best beer in America, Damnation from Russian River Brewing Co. But if you are in Sarasota or Memphis, well, I'm sorry. Really I am. I am not gloating. Promise. But at least the brewery will ship to California residents. (See below.)

Vinny Cilurzo, the brew master, is also now bottling his fabulous Blind Pig IPA; his Pliny the Elder, a hugely hoppy brew, and Redemption, a blonde, lower-alcohol version of Damnation. To get details, send an e-mail to Info@RussianRiverBrewing.com.

I love to write about beer. But since I am not an expert in the subject, there are those who are might see me as a poacher. But when the side dishes are so eclectic and distinct, a varied selection of brews is a fascinating experience.

Some years ago, a friend threw a July 4 party and to do it right, he bought trash cans, each filled with a different style of beer, covered bottles and cans with ice, and then labeled the lids. One had Mexican beers (my favorite was Bohemia). Another was called American Craft Brews (I loved Sierra Nevada and Anchor Steam's Liberty Ale), another was British, and there were cans for ales and "rare."

Included in the latter can was the very pale Tusker from Kenya; Fischer from the Alsace in France (then unfiltered, now, alas, filtered); and Oranjeboom, a light Pilsner from Holland.

More recently we visited the brewhouse at Guinness in Dublin, where a guide told us there was no difference in taste between what we had there and what we got in cans and bottles in the United States. Hard to believe that one.

OK, you started reading this for wine ideas, and there are still people who'll want wine with their grilled foods. So here one idea: pink.

Most grilled foods represent casual dining, and as such you should seek a dry or off-dry ros? for the occasion. There are literally dozens of wines in this category, many from Spain and the south of France, but California also does a wide variety of pink wines.

And the nice thing is that almost everything is under $20 and most closer to $10.

Among the best bets are 2007 wines from Bonterra, Little Black Dress, Iron Horse (one from Pinot Noir, another from Sangiovese), Navarro (tasting room only; 800-537-9463), Carol Shelton Rendezvous Ros?, J. Pedroncelli Zinfandel Ros? and the Grenache Ros? from Beckmen in central California.

One final beer suggestion: Never consume a fine beer from the container in which it came. My suggestion is a traditional tulip-shaped wine glass, to allow the beer to breathe and open up.

Also, served too cold and the brew becomes mute. Cool is better than ice cold.

Wine of the Week: 2007 Yangarra Grenache Shiraz Rose, McLaren Vale ($15): Bright strawberry aroma with traces of pepper and spice and a soft finish. Served well chilled this Australia pink wine will work with a wide variety of dishes.

Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County, Calif. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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