Barnett on Business Travel

My first visit to Harry's Bar in Rome is forever implanted in my brain. A silver-haired Anthony Hopkins look-alike in a proper white barman's coat standing behind a small, U-shaped bar was slowly, serenely stirring a gin martini, unfazed by the after-work throng shouting drink orders at him. He was the picture-perfect bartender, neither intrusive nor aloof, but friendly, plying his trade at his own speed. Today, two decades later, the curved bar is longer with a polished brass rail for leaning, paneled in sculpted warm woods and just as hospitable.

Head barman Pasqueli Diposto carries on the tradition of meticulous mixology in his own private oasis of calmness and civility — despite the bar's local popularity and international renown among business travelers as well.

This Harry's Bar — no kin to Giuseppe Cipraini's original Harry's Bar in Venice, circa 1931, or to Harry's New York Bar in Paris — gained instant notoriety for its location on the Via Veneto, the fashionable boulevard in the opening scenes of filmmaker Federico Fellini's tour de force, "La Dolce Vida," or "The Sweet Life." Even now, most visitors to the Eternal City think Harry's Bar starred in the landmark film depicting Rome's decadence in the late 1950s.

Fellini's visually seductive movie was filmed in black and white, but Harry's Bar and Ristoranti (Via V. Veneto 150; 39-0648643; www.harrysbar.it) is a palate of lush color. Walk into its grand entrance and turn left through a marble arch into the bar. Today, there are a dozen tables with chairs upholstered in burgundy, gray, black, brown and cream with a tapestry covering the high ceiling, one restrained chandelier and small sconces throughout for mood lighting.

I don't recall a platoon of servers my first time through, but they are personable and stylish, clad in all black, without being either brusque or fawning. Interestingly, Italians converse at Mach II and other languages fill the air, but the decibel level does not drown out the singer and piano player who perform nightly until 2 am.

As I remember, Harry's was a stand-up bar with no stools like many European saloons. The theory being you can move around easier, meet and talk with friends, colleagues and total strangers instead of being anchored. Now, there are stools. But traditions die hard and people still stand. "Women can stand or sit at the bar by themselves or as a couple and it's a safe place," says Diposto, who sports a black jacket and shirt and a snappy regimental tie. I prefer the bar as front row center in this libational theatre for watching traditional Italian cocktails being handcrafted at Diposto's pace

The signature drink is the Bellini, created in the first Harry's in Venice, a delicious fusion of fresh peach juice and champagne served straight up for $25 (based on current exchange rate in June) A version that's novel to me is called the Puccini and is Champagne mixed with fresh tangerine juice.

The Negroni — red vermouth, gin and Campari — is another favorite among Harry's local and international clientele, $21.

Italians of a certain vintage love their "digestivos" and Fernet-Branca has been the after-meal, stomach-settling liqueur of choice for generations. It takes a strong belly to even sip this bitter brew, but Diposto carries a mint-flavored Fernet-Branca, usually served straight or with Coca-Cola for around $15.

Old World Italian liqueurs like Strega and Galliano usually collect dust on the shelves in most U.S. bars, but here they're actively mixed in cocktails popular 30 years ago but known around the world. For instance, a Golden Cadillac is a mixture of Galliano, creme de cocoa and fresh cream, $15.

Still, it's a fascinating venue for business travelers who want to get know their Italian prospects or entertain clients in style. Says Diposto: "Our guests are 50 percent Italian, mostly businesspeople, bankers, government officials and 50 percent internationals including showpeople, lawyers and diplomats, so we make cocktails to try and please everyone's taste." Recently, he had a request for three Bloody Caesars, practically the national drink of Canada. It substitutes real clam juice — but mostly spicy Clamatto juice — for tomato juice. Outside of Canada, that call would stymie the younger, less worldly bartender.

Harry's Bar has a diverse but short menu of cocktails with alluring names like Cardinale, Garibaldi, and the Bronx — along with old standbys like the Americano, Gin Fizz, and the original Dry Gin Martini— for around $18. (Check the website for the complete list.) Or order Italian wines — pinot grigios, chardonnays, merlots and chiantis — instead of buying an entire bottle. Harry's also carries a lineup of foreign bottled beers for around $14 apiece, and a half-dozen sizeable sandwiches ranging from smoked salmon, $16, to a double Harry's cheeseburger for $25.

Prices may seem wickedly stratospheric, but the tip is included. If the service is dazzling, another 10 percent added to the tab won't be refused. The good news: The American greenback has been slowly gaining against the euro. So, by the time you order or sit outside sipping espressos and watching the world sashay by on the Via Veneto, Harry's Bar might well be a real bargain.

"Alla salute!"

Chris Barnett writes on business travel strategies that save time, money and stress. Reach him at cbarn@aol.com. To find out more about Chris Barnett and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2009 CREATORS SYNDICATE INC.