"The Heinz Tomato Ketchup Cookbook" by Paul Hartley (Ten Speed, $12.95)

Sometimes, seasonal cooking might be better if revolved around the products rather than the ingredients. Sure, fresh and crisp autumn pleasures like pumpkins, cranberries and pears are splendid, but why not consider making this fall all about the ketchup?

Wouldn't it be easier than all that scooping, chopping and cooking that some seasonal ingredients require? Instead, pour a bit of that multipurpose red pasty sauce into everything from soup, to casseroles, to, say, a huge pot of fragrant vermouth-scented mussels.

The condiment rich with both tomato flavor and collective Americana memories is not just for a dusty corner of your pantry, or a lonely spot between half-used bottles of salad dressings in your refrigerator. Like Ten Speed Press' unexpectedly gourmet "The Wonder Bread Cookbook" from last season, "The Heinz Tomato Ketchup Cookbook" is a classy affair filled with pop culture and surprisingly sophisticated, yet easy-to-prepare dishes.

The tomato ketchup timeline begins with the birth of Henry John Heinz in 1844 near Pittsburgh, followed by his 1876 introduction of the miracle product — with a nod earlier in the book to the "ke-tsiap," a spicy, pickled fish condiment that British seamen brought home from 17th-century China. The fish sauce is thought to be the origin of the later name and sauce to which enterprising New England home cooks eventually added tomatoes, tangy vinegar, sweet sugar, salt and spices; Heinz turned it into a convenience product to be a "blessed relief for mother," since making it at home was messy and difficult.

Many fun facts, retro ads and Art Decco design fill the colorful pages, but even more treasured are the recipes — many of which are also spotlighted in stylized color photographs.

Hearty traditional fare like Pork and Apple Meatloaf and Meatballs with Tomato Sauce get their due, but many of the recipes are unexpected, easy gourmet treats that will expand your recipe box in refreshing ways.

Lamb and Mint Brunch Burgers are topped with a dynamic salsa that includes not only ketchup, but also mango chutney, cucumber, green apple, lime juice, tamarind, cumin and cilantro. Cauliflower Fritters enjoy a sweet chile dip that incorporates ketchup, Greek yogurt, mint sauce and lemon juice. In Bloody Mary Macaroni, "thick tubes of pasta are married to a spicy vodka, tomato and celery sauce."

With choices like that, whether you end the centuries-old debate of calling it "catsup" or "ketchup," there's no question that the spicy condiment will spice up your autumn cooking.

FRAGRANT VERMOUTH MUSSELS

3/4 pound fresh mussels

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 large shallots, finely chopped

1 stalk lemongrass, finely sliced

2 tablespoons Heinz Tomato Ketchup

3/4 cup dry vermouth

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro (leaves and stems)

1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 lemon (half for zest and half for serving wedges)

Crusty bread, for serving

Yields 2 appetizer servings.

Put mussels into sink; cover with cold fresh water. Discard any mussels that are open, damaged or don't close when tapped. Scrape or scrub them clean of any barnacles; pull away any beards, then put mussels back into clean fresh water.

Heat saucepan, large enough to hold mussels, over low heat; add oil, shallots and lemongrass. Fry gently until just softened. Add ketchup, vermouth, cilantro, parsley (reserving a little for garnish) and lemon zest. Increase heat and when liquid is bubbling, add mussels to pan. Stir them well in sauce, then cover and cook over high heat for 6 to 8 minutes, shaking pan quite vigorously once or twice with lid on.

As soon as mussels have opened (with a slotted spoon, discard any that fail to open), transfer them to warm serving bowls with a slotted spoon. Pour the sauce all over and scatter with remaining parsley. Serve with lemon wedges and plenty of crusty bread for dunking in the sauce.

PORK AND APPLE MEATLOAF

1 onion, grated

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 pound ground pork

1/2 pound cooked white rice (about 2 ounces when it was uncooked)

2 green apples, peeled, cored and grated

2 medium eggs, beaten

2 tablespoons Heinz Tomato Ketchup

Generous dash of Worcestershire sauce

Generous pinch freshly grated nutmeg

1 heaping tablespoon dried Italian herbs

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground pepper, to taste

Yields 6 to 8 servings.

Preheat oven to 375 F. In a skillet, fry onion in olive oil for 3 to 4 minutes until soft. In large bowl, combine all remaining ingredients, add onion and thoroughly mix together with hands or a wooden spoon.

Butter a 1-pound loaf pan, press mixture into it; bake in center of oven, uncovered, for 1 1/4 hours. Carefully remove from oven, allow to cool slightly and then carefully remove from pan. You can serve this warm or cold; it's even perfect fried in slices for breakfast. It should keep for 3 days in the refrigerator.

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "After Work Gourmet" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.