The Timeless Sparkle of Cartier Jewels by Linda Rosenkrantz on Creators.com

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The Timeless Sparkle of Cartier Jewels

In the realm of vintage jewelry, the name of Cartier glistens like the gems it has been producing for over a century and a half. A combination of distinctive design, superb stones and craftsmanship has taken this French firm into the top echelon of jewelers.

The House of Cartier was very much a family enterprise. Three brothers — Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier — were the grandsons of Louis-Francois Cartier, who had opened a small jewelry store in Paris in 1847. Realizing that the burgeoning French middle class would be desirous of displaying their new wealth with opulent jewels, he turned away from the production and selling of traditional pearls and cameos toward showier pieces.

His son Alfred joined his father in the 1870s, organizing the firm's first international exhibition in London, expanding their range of clientele. The discovery of diamond mines in South Africa assured European jewelers of an ample supply of this most precious stone.

Alfred's three sons joined the business as soon as they reached maturity, beginning in 1898, and it was this third generation that would establish Cartier as the pre-eminent jeweler in the world, each brother forming his own mini-empire. It was Pierre, the second of the two brothers, who, after marrying an American socialite, opened a store on Fifth Avenue in New York in 1909, solidifying Cartier's American presence.

And that is the starting point for a handsome new book titled "Cartier and America" by Martin Chapman (Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco and Prestel, $35), which accompanies an exhibition, curated by the author, currently at the San Francisco Legion of Honor through April 18. This lavishly illustrated volume tells the fascinating story of Cartier's century in the U.S., focusing on the celebrity clients who played a role in the story, from Vivien Leigh and Grace Kelly to Franklin D. Roosevelt and Fred Astaire.

After a brief period at another Fifth Avenue address, Pierre Cartier acquired a private mansion on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 52nd Street that had been built for Morton F.

Plant, in exchange — quite appropriately — for a magnificent double-strand necklace of the finest natural pearls, which Mrs. Plant had been coveting, plus $100. Cartier's reputation in this country had, of course, preceded the move. By the turn of the 20th century, Cartier had become one of the primary destinations for American visiting Paris; and now they could find jewels of equal splendor right in New York.

As can be seen in the Chapman book, the American rich and nouveau riche were indeed offered the same quality pieces worn by the aristocrats of Europe. Some of these early examples included diamond tiaras in Cartier's signature Louis XVI style, perfect for a visit to the Metropolitan Opera's Diamond Horseshoe, and complementary choker necklaces and bosom ornaments, worn by the most prominent names of the Gilded Age, such as Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt III. Another socialite, Evalyn Walsh McLean, bought the famous blue diamond known as the Hope — despite the fact that it was supposed to be cursed.

Although most of Cartier New York's stock was sent from Paris, in 1917, a workshop was installed on the fifth floor of their building — known as the American Art Works — where, eventually, up to 70 jewelers and goldsmiths would create original pieces, many of them on commission. Lavish clocks, vanity cases and other bibelots also became part of their repertoire. Between the two World Wars, Cartier produced brilliantly colored, geometric-patterned jewelry in the Art Deco style, as well as pieces reflecting the influences of India, China, Japan and Egypt.

Cartier, of course, continues to thrive, still producing magnificent pieces. So if you can't make it to the exhibit in San Francisco, a tour of Cartier and America is the next best thing.

Linda Rosenkrantz has edited Auction magazine and authored 18 books, most recently "Beyond Ava & Aidan: The Enlightened Guide to Naming your Baby" (St. Martin's Press). Visit her baby names website at http://nameberry.com. She cannot answer letters personally. To find out more about Linda Rosenkrantz and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.