The Lure of Delicate Vintage Lace by Linda Rosenkrantz on Creators.com

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The Lure of Delicate Vintage Lace

"Lace" is surely one of the most evocative words in the English language. Reaching far beyond the dictionary definition of "an ornamental openwork fabric," it suggests a delicate, elegant sensibility — which is surely a large part of its appeal to collectors. It offers a wide variety of styles and patterns, with evocative geographical names like Alencon, Vincennes and Venetian.

The word itself derives from Latin, meaning a noose or snare, and it is quite logical that the technique of systematic looping of threads began with early man making snares to catch game and nets to capture fish. There is a rich, anecdote-filled tradition of lace making, dating back to the early dynasties of ancient Egypt and depicted in exquisite detail in the portraits of Renaissance Italy. In 16th- to 18th-century Europe, lace was a prized commodity, seen as a status system (worn not only by women but also by men as neck ruffs, large cuffs and even falling from the tops of their boots — as can be seen in the portraits by Rembrandt and others), and widely used in churches — and was an economic force as well, as a unit of trade and major cottage industry in many communities. And since it was considered such a treasure, and therefore carefully preserved, a surprising amount of heirloom lace has survived in pristine condition (and — a bonus — is often under-priced).

General style trends are reflected in lace patterns of various periods. In the 16th century, there was an emphasis on embroidered laces with geometric motifs; the 17th century saw needlepoint laces and the introduction of foliated scrolls with no backgrounds, while the 18th saw bobbin laces (also known as "bone" and "pillow" lace), with both stylized and naturalistic floral forms, the development of mesh backgrounds and elaborate ornamental stitches. And with the 19th century came the introduction of machine-made net, which is not nearly as collectible as the handmade.

There are some strange but fascinating novelties in the history of lace, one of which is the caterpillar lace made in Munich, Germany.

In this case, not only did the webs of insects provide inspiration, but the insects themselves were put to work in the production of manmade lace. A flat surface would be covered with an edible paste, over which a design was traced in oil. The caterpillars would then eat the paste but avoid the oiled areas as they spun their silk threads.

One way to classify lace is by method of construction. There are four major groupings: the looping method, which includes knitted, crocheted and hairpin lace; knotting, or tying two or more threads together, as in macrame netting, tatting and waffle work; crossing or passing threads over and under by twisting, braiding and weaving, as in bobbin lace; and needlework, meaning making stitches with a threaded needle, as in Battenberg and Tenerife lace.

Vintage lace is available in a variety of forms, including tablecloths and runners, doilies, bedspreads, curtains, church vestments, collars and cuffs, handkerchiefs and various articles of clothing, and is judged for condition, complexity and execution of the stitches. Here are some recent prices for examples in excellent condition as reported in the 2010 edition of "Schroeder's Antiques Price Guide" (Collector Books, $19.95):

Hand-worked lace tablecloth, 135 by 65 inches: $1,000.

Brussels Princess ivory lace jacket with Valenciennes lace trim, 1890s: $285.

Battenburg lace curtain, c.1920, with mall repair, 108 by 50 inches: $195.

White Brussels Princess lace Bertha, 1890s, 7 by 84 inches: $185.

White floral lace curtain with scalloped bottom, c.1900, 60 by 32 inches: $165.

White lace tea cozy with pink silk padded lining, c. 1900, 7 1/2 by 24 by 6 inches: $160.

Pale ivory lace veil with scallops, 1880s, 32 by 27 inches: $145.

Pair Irish Carrickmacross ivory lace cuffs, 1920s, 9 by 12 inches: $65.

Linda Rosenkrantz has edited Auction magazine and authored 18 books, most recently "Beyond Ava & Aidan: The Enlightened Guide to Naming your Baby" (St. Martin's Press). Visit her baby names website at http://nameberry.com. She cannot answer letters personally. To find out more about Linda Rosenkrantz and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.