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After-Work Gourmet by Lisa Messinger

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Lisa Messinger

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Variations of Similar Ingredients are Easy Meal Enhancers

Busy cooks are always looking for quick touches that can give their dishes an easy gourmet edge.

I recently stumbled on such a step when preparing a simple stir-fry dish. The chicken recipe called for both finely chopped hot jalapeno peppers and thin strips of sweet bell peppers. The ingenious flavor and texture variation of the related ingredients was an effortless way to dress the meal to impress.

Soon, I was seeking out other such peppy pairs. I found one especially precious example in "Home Cooking with Charlie Trotter" (Ten Speed, $25), the new book by the Chicago-based restaurateur who is often named the country's top chef. He places Granny Smith apple-filled turnovers prepared with frozen filo pastry in a quick warm apple cider "soup."

This kind of philosophy is excellent because it's a timesaver. Examine one bold ingredient in your meal and you can think of a related one to add. Best: It's a no-brainer that they are compatible. Here are a few ideas:

— Sprinkle half the brown sugar you usually would over oatmeal or granola. Then place a light dose of confectioners' (powdered sugar) atop that.

— Swirl drained, flaked canned albacore tuna into store-bought tapenade (the seasoned French-inspired olive/caper paste) and serve it as a dip alongside grilled or broiled fresh ahi tuna.

— For high-impact results, before blending, toss a handful of almonds in a coffee smoothie as well as a teaspoon of almond extract.

— Drizzle both white chocolate chips and warmed dark chocolate syrup over ice cream, sherbet or sorbet.

— Finely chop fresh mint leaves and include them in either store-bought or homemade brownie mix. When baked, frost brownies and top with crushed peppermint candies.

CHICKEN WITH SWEET AND HOT PEPPERS

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon water

2 teaspoons dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine

12 ounces boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch chunks

3 tablespoons chicken stock or water

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 tablespoon finely chopped jalapeno peppers (see Note)

2 teaspoons chopped fresh gingerroot

1 1/4 cups thin strips red, green and yellow bell pepper

Yields 4 servings.

In large bowl, combine cornstarch, water and sherry; stir well. Add chicken; mix gently to coat evenly with marinade. Set aside in refrigerator for 20 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine chicken stock, soy sauce, salt and sugar; stir well.

Heat wok or large deep skillet over high heat. Add oil; swirl to coat pan.
Add garlic, jalapeno peppers and ginger. Toss well, until garlic and ginger are fragrant, about 15 seconds.

Add chicken mixture, quickly spreading into single layer and cook, undisturbed, until edges turn white (1 minute). Toss well; cook for 1 minute more. Add bell peppers; toss well. Reduce heat to medium.

Add chicken stock mixture and cook, until chicken is no longer pink inside and is thoroughly cooked and peppers are tender-crisp, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to serving platter. Serve hot or warm.

Note: Experts recommend wearing rubber gloves when chopping hot peppers. Avoid touching your eyes during or afterward.

— "300 Best Stir-Fry Recipes" by Nancie McDermott (Robert Rose, $24.95).

WARM APPLE CIDER SOUP WITH CRISPY APPLE TURNOVERS

Soup:

6 cups apple cider

1 cinnamon stick

1/2 cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon orange zest

2 whole allspice berries

Filling:

1 cup peeled, cored and diced Granny Smith apples

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/4 cup flour

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Pastry:

3 sheets filo dough

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

4 tablespoons confectioners' sugar

Yields 6 servings.

To prepare soup: Cook all of the soup ingredients in large saucepan over medium heat for 30 minutes, or until reduced by half. Strain through fine-mesh sieve; set aside. Warm before serving.

To prepare filling: Place apples in small bowl; toss with lemon juice until well coated. Drain excess lemon juice. Add flour and cinnamon and toss.

To prepare turnovers: Preheat oven to 350 F. Lay a sheet of filo out, brush with 2 tablespoons of the melted butter; sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the confectioners' sugar. Top with a sheet of filo; repeat the process. Place last sheet of filo on stack and brush with remaining butter. Cut filo into 6 (3-inch-wide) strips. Turn strips over so buttered side is facing down; place a spoonful of filling mixture at end of 1 strip. Fold over bottom corner diagonally to form triangle. (The bottom edge should align with side edge.) Continue folding triangle in alternating directions to end of strip. Repeat process with remaining strips. Place on baking sheet; bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown.

Place warm apple turnover in center of each bowl. Pour warm soup around turnover.

— "Home Cooking with Charlie Trotter" (Ten Speed, $25).

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "Cooks' Books" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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Originally Published on Thursday November 13, 2008

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