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After-Work Gourmet by Lisa Messinger

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Lisa Messinger

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Left-Wingers and Right-Wingers Benefit from an Election Day Chicken-Wing Party

If you're on Pennsylvania Avenue in Washington, D.C., near the White House on Nov. 4, you are likely to catch election fever as well as chicken wing fever. That's because every Tuesday through Election Day the 1331 Bar & Lounge at the JW Marriott is serving up "Left Wings with spicy Asian dipping sauce" and "Right Wings with Texas honey barbecue sauce" for your consideration.

Contemplate letting their creativity sway your own vote when it comes to an easy election night viewing party at your house. If you've been as busy on the work trail as the candidates have been on the campaign trail, you know there's little time or energy remaining to prepare pots of partisan party snacks. Chicken wings are the most qualified candidates to impress your guests.

Best of all, you can have high-impact, persuasive results without even cooking. Simple, yet dazzling, dipping sauces do the trick. If you're pressed for time and energy, why spend time chopping apart wings, marinating or basting them, and then frying, grilling or baking? Consider buying a batch from your favorite supermarket fresh-deli section.

Expertly spiced take-out versions of wings are also excellent. Try the citrus-marinated a la carte flame-grilled wings from the popular El Pollo Loco chain, or the plump and luscious varieties available from WingStreet, a division of Pizza Hut with 1,000 locations nationwide. The fabulously spiced wings on menus at Thai and Chinese take-out spots are divine choices. Many pizza joints, like the Domino's and Ameci's chains, also offer moist, well-spiced wings on their to-go menus.

Although venues like WingStreet and Domino's present multiple sauces, the key for a memorable election night viewing party — where you as well as this year's presidential candidates have a chance to make history — is to take literally just a few minutes to whip up your own dipping sauces with celery stalks, the additional favorite accompaniment.

Steven Raichlen, best-selling, award-winning grilling guru who authored a string of books, including "BBQ USA" (Workman, $21.95), shows how easy it can be with his hot mop sauce inspired by the Buffalo, N.Y., Anchor Bar — usually cited as the 1964 birthplace of Buffalo wings:

For about 8 servings, melt 1 stick of salted butter in a small saucepan over medium heat and stir in 1/2 cup Tabasco sauce or your favorite hot sauce. You can simply dip your take-out wings in the hot-buttery mop sauce, or, like the Anchor Bar, baste a bit on your wings before reheating them. Then serve the rest of the mop sauce alongside them.

Another tangy, creamy sauce is one that includes red wine and soy sauce that was collected in Spain by Penelope Casas, the author who first introduced now wildly popular tapas — mini appetizer plates served one after the other — to the U.S. She recently came out with an updated version of her classic, "Tapas: The Little Dishes of Spain" (Knopf, $30). Here's her take:

For 4 to 6 servings, in a medium saucepan bring 4 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce, 2 tablespoons low-sodium beef broth and 1 tablespoon dry red wine to a boil, and reduce to about 3 tablespoons. Stir in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cover and reserve. (May be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 8 hours.)

Before serving, heat the sauce and add your take-out or homemade wings in several batches, letting them bathe in the sauce a minute or two. Remove to a warm platter. Serve, showered with 1 finely chopped or shredded scallion and the sauce on the side for dipping.
Alternatively, wings can be dipped in sauce as eaten, skipping the heated bath.

Raichlen's version of the classic blue cheese dipping sauce served at the Anchor Bar is also an easy, ultra-creamy Election Day winner that's flavored with onions, black pepper, mayonnaise and sour cream. Here are the directions, which is followed by a wonderful recipe for Rosemary Lemon-Lime Chicken Wings — if you find yourself sneaking home early to check election results and have time to make a batch from scratch.

 

MAYTAG BLUE CHEESE SAUCE FOR CHICKEN WINGS

4 ounces (preferably Maytag) blue cheese

1 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar

1/4 cup minced onion

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Coarse salt (kosher or sea), optional

Yields about 3 cups.

Press blue cheese through a sieve into nonreactive mixing bowl. Whisk in mayonnaise, sour cream, vinegar, onion and pepper. It's unlikely you'll need salt (the cheese is quite salty already), but taste for seasoning and add a little if necessary. The blue cheese sauce will keep in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 days.

—"Steven Raichlen's BBQ USA: 425 Fiery Recipes from All Across America" (Workman, $21.95).

 

ROSEMARY LEMON-LIME GRILLED CHICKEN WINGS

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon chopped dried rosemary or 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary, plus optional stalk fresh rosemary, for grilling

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 1/4 pounds chicken wings, halved

1/2 teaspoon salt

Lime wedges, for serving

Yields 4 servings.

In shallow dish, mix oil, paprika, cumin, chopped rosemary, lemon zest and good grinding of black pepper. Add chicken wings and turn to coat with dressing. Cover and marinate for at least 1 hour, or up to 24 hours, refrigerated, turning occasionally.

Gently turn chicken wings in dressing, adding 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook over low to medium heat on oiled barbecue hot plate or cast-iron griddle (see Note) for about 45 minutes, or until cooked through and well-colored, basting with marinade occasionally. Don't brown too quickly; it is best to cook slowly and thoroughly.

If desired, carefully transfer wings to barbecue grill for last few minutes. Add optional stalk of rosemary to heat source. Carefully fan flames and let wings absorb rosemary smoke for a few seconds.

Alternatively, cook in an oven preheated to 375 F for about 25 minutes, or until golden and cooked through.

Transfer chicken wings to platter, sprinkle with salt to taste, and squeeze lime juice over all. Serve somewhat hot or at room temperature.

Note: Grilling guru Steven Raichlen ("Steven Raichlen's BBQ USA", Workman, $21.95) sometimes skewers his wings before grilling:

"Brush and oil grill grate. If using 12-inch bamboo skewers, tear off a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil that is roughly as long as the grill is wide. Fold piece of aluminum foil in half lengthwise. Place folded aluminum foil flat on grate, then place skewers on top of it. Place wings in center of hot grate over drip pan and away from heat. Cover the grill. Cook wings until golden brown and cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes."

— Adapted from "Sizzle: Sensational Barbecue Food" by Julie Biuso (JB Publications, $19.95).

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "Cooks' Books" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2008 CREATORS SYNDICATE INC.




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Originally Published on Thursday October 23, 2008

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