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After-Work Gourmet by Lisa Messinger

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Lisa Messinger

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Autumn Leftovers Live on Brilliantly

When you're one with the foods of the season, like wild rice or beans, it often seems meals can't get heartier or more delightful. However, autumn leftovers are just what a busy cook needs as the foundation for even more splendid — and surprising — treats.

The remnants of a wild rice side dish, for instance, can quickly turn into a sultry salad. Other fall favorites easily jump in the mix for stunning results: Dried cranberries stirred into the rice wine vinegar-honey dressing and currants, apricots, dates and pecans in the rice salad. A third-generation leftover could consist of heating remains of the salad and serving it as a distinctive stuffing.

Leftovers from a hearty white bean side dish do a few spins and then jump into the food processor, revitalizing as an autumn puree to pair with roasted meats or even as a warm appetizer dip.

Muses like these have got me eagerly eying all my fall meals for future, extended use. Perhaps that stick-to-your-ribs vegetable soup could later be pureed and reheated as a flavorful sauce for meat or poultry. That fall fruit cobbler, crushed up and stirred a bit, would make a thrilling topping for autumn morning pancakes. The list goes on — give my initial inspirations a try.

WILD RICE SALAD WITH CURRANT AND CRANBERRY

Dressing:

1/4 cup rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons honey

1/2 cup olive oil

1/4 cup dried cranberries

Salad:

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage or 1/2 teaspoon dried sage

4 cups cooked wild rice

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 cup dried currants

1/4 cup chopped dried apricots

1/2 small red onion, diced

1/4 cup chopped dates

1/4 cup chopped pecans or slivered almonds

Yields 4 servings.

To prepare dressing: In a large bowl, combine vinegar, lemon juice, salt, pepper and honey. Slowly whisk in the oil. Add the cranberries and season with salt and pepper.

To prepare salad: Add the sage to the cooked wild rice and season with salt and pepper.

In a small bowl, soak the currants and apricots in water for 5 to 7 minutes, then drain well.

Add the currants, apricots, red onion and dates to the wild rice and toss with the dressing.
Top with the almonds or pecans.

—Adapted from "A Master Class: Sensational Recipes from the Chefs of the New England Culinary Institute and Ellen Michaud" (University Press of New England, $35).

WHITE BEAN PUREE

2 1/2 cups canned great Northern beans or similar (see Note)

1 medium white onion, cut into small dice

1 medium carrot, cut into small dice

1 celery rib, cut into small dice

1 garlic clove, smashed

2 sprigs thyme

1 bay leaf

About 5 to 6 cups chicken stock or water

Sea salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/3 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

1 garlic clove, minced

Few drops extra-virgin olive oil

Yields about 3 to 3 1/2 cups puree.

Place the beans in a 2-quart saucepan with the onion, carrot, celery, smashed garlic, thyme sprigs, bay leaf and five cups of the stock.

Season the beans with salt and pepper and bring them to a boil over high heat. Immediately lower the heat and simmer for 90 minutes (should be very tender). If the mixture becomes dry, add some additional stock or water. Carefully drain the beans in a colander. With a utensil, pick out and discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf.

To finish the puree, warm the beans and vegetables in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add cream, thyme leaves and minced garlic to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Raise the heat to high, bring beans to a boil and then lower to a simmer. Cook until the cream is reduced, almost dry on the beans, and the beans are heated through, 4 to 5 minutes.

Transfer the bean mixture to a food processor and process until it's smooth, adding a few drops of oil until the puree glistens a bit. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper as needed and pulse it to combine.

Note: If you have these leftover from another meal, start with them in that state. If not, start right from the can.

— Adapted from "Bistros and Brasseries: Recipes and Reflections on Classic Cafe Cooking from The Culinary Institute of America Dining Series" (Lebhar-Friedman, $29.95).

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "Cooks' Books" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2008 CREATORS SYNDICATE INC.




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Originally Published on Thursday October 02, 2008

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