Even in the best of times, wine enthusiasts are attracted to "value" wines. But when a glimpse at the Dow can cause a knot in the pit of the stomach, value wines are more precious than ever.

Just to be clear, when I say value I don't necessarily mean cheap. By definition, a value wine is a wine that is of very good character but inexpensive. A value wine should always leave the impression that it cost more.

Having watched in horror recently as the stock market plummeted, I decided to focus this week on wine brands I have found to be reliable at reasonable prices, and I drew upon my favorites from all over the world. In keeping with the spirit of that focus, I've also dedicated the Tasting Notes this week to wines for $25 or less.

First, the brands:

Andeluna Cellars, Argentina — This winery offers a full range of wines at its entry-level price of $12. Though Andeluna's more expensive wines provide a greater expression of terroir and considerably more complexity, the entry-level wines — especially the malbec and cabernet sauvignon — are generous and fleshy, well balanced, and always taste as though they should have cost more about twice as much as you actually paid.

Five Rivers, California — The two big hits for this large California winery, which is owned by the drinks company Brown Forman, are cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Most of the grapes are sourced from the Paso Robles region and vineyards elsewhere in California's up-and-coming Central Coast region. And here's a good parlor trick. Pour a glass of either wine for friends and don't tell them what it is. Have them guess the price. It's guaranteed everyone will be floored when they learn it's a mere $10.

Solaz, Spain — The Osborne family of Sherry fame owns this vast property in La Mancha, about three hours south of Madrid. Using economies of scale and modern viticulture and winemaking technologies, Solaz is able to hold the line on costs while producing Tempranillo, shiraz, cabernet and other red wines of exceptional character. The price range is a comfortable $10-$14. Osborne also owns Bodega Montecillo in Rioja, which is one of the greatest value reds of Spain, although a bit more expensive ($15-$40) than the wines of Solaz.

Marques de Casa Concha, Chile — This is but one piece of the Concha y Toro empire, but what I like about these wines is the concept of regional terroir. For example, Concha y Toro's slightly less expensive line of Casillero del Diablo wines (in the $10 range) are very good, but they're generally a blend of grapes sourced from all over Chile. The Marques de Casa Concha wines hail from specific appellations, and often from single vineyards. Cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay are first rate, and prices range from $15 to $25.

Hill of Content (The Wishing Tree), Australia — This wine is made by renowned importer John Larchet, whose company, The Australian Premium Wine Collection, is best known for its high-end boutique Australian wines. For fun (and, I'm sure, a bit of profit) Larchet taps his excellent vineyard sources to make the Hill of Content wines (check out the red Benjamin's Blend) that retail in the $15 range. He also makes another inexpensive line, The Wishing Tree, which is generally quite good and retails for a few dollars per bottle less.

Bellussi, Italy — Nothing like a tasty bit of the bubbly to lift your spirits in difficult economic times, and the Bellussi Brut Prosecco could be just what the doctor ordered. The suggested retail is around $19, but I always see this delicious wine discounted, sometimes for less than $12 a bottle. At that price, it's nothing less than stunning!

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Arboleda 2006 Carmenere, Chile ($19) — Gorgeous, deep violet color in the glass presents a mouth-watering visual that doesn't disappoint on the palate. Richly layered black fruits and spice, with overtones of oak vanillin that can't even begin to overpower the underlying fruit. This is an intense, beefy, complex wine for the money, and another example of the tremendous value to be found in Chilean reds from top producers. Rating: 90.

TASTING NOTES

Bridlewood 2007 Reserve Viognier, Central Coast ($24) — Bridlewood exhibits admirable restraint with its Viognier, eschewing the faddish trend of viognier as a high-alcohol wine cocktail with over-ripe flavors and cloying sweetness on the finish. Bridlewood Reserve avoids those traps and delivers a refreshing, clean viognier with true varietal characteristics of honeysuckle, peach, tropical fruits and red citrus. Very complex, well balanced and utterly delicious. Rating: 90.

Provenance Vineyards 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($20) — This is the classic Napa style that has evolved over the past 20 years, exhibiting ripe white peach and a zesty layer of citrus in the background. With excellent weight on the palate and persistence of flavor, this is a sauvignon to serve with oily fish such as salmon, or pastas in a cream sauce. Winemaker Tom Rinaldi (formerly at Duckhorn) has always had a deft hand with sauvignon and he makes that point here. Rating: 90.

Paul Dolan, 2006 Zinfandel, Mendocino / Amador ($20) — There's something unusual going on here and I, for one, certainly hope it's a trend. Dolan's zinfandel has freshness and balance. How can that be? This is a zinfandel, after all. It's supposed to be fleshy, jammy and sweet, with enough alcohol to keep your candle lit for days? Not here, not this wine. It delivers beautiful red-fruited aromas and flavors, along with a smooth, sophisticated finish that soothes rather than burns on the back end. Wouldn't it be wonderful if other zinfandel producers could see the light? Rating: 90.

Paul Dolan 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino County ($25) — Shows exceptional purity of fruit, with excellent concentration and depth. Made from organic grapes, the Dolan cabernet is a gem, particularly at this price. Ripe red fruits are layered and textured, supported by supple, sweet tannins and fresh acidity. Though the alcohol eclipses 14 percent, this wine is well balanced despite its obvious weight and power. The nose offers an inviting floral perfume, with hints of spice and well-measured oak. Perfect for grilled chops. Rating: 90

Whitehaven 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($22) — This is classic Marlborough sauvignon — slightly green, with pungent, grassy aromas and tart citrus on the palate. The nose is intense, and inviting if you're a fan of this style, with a hint of passion fruit pushing through the waves of herbal aroma. The palate is rich and long, with refreshing acidity. Bring on the steamers! Rating: 90.

Trapiche 2007 Torrontes "Broquel", Argentina ($16) — Not as light as many Torrontes, the Broquel is a bit more serious for matching with food, although it displays the trademark spiciness of Torrontes on the nose. Enough weight and body to handle fish courses and spicy Asian cuisine. Rating: 87.

Paul Dolan 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino County ($18) — This Sauvignon from Dolan is fairly simply, but quite well balanced and refreshing. It delivers aromas of fresh grapefruit and pear, with lively acidity and a clean finish. It has enough character to stand up to oysters and steamed shellfish, but I prefer it as an aperitif or just as an old-fashioned quaffer. Rating: 86.

El Coto 2007 Rioja "Blanco", Spain ($12) — Fresh and clean, with aromas of green apple and pear, this is an easy drinking white that's low in alcohol (12 percent) and extremely quaffable. Perfect as a party aperitif, particularly with savory appetizers. Rating: 85.

Castello Monaci 2006 Salice Salentino "Liante", Italy ($12) — Somewhat rustic, but that's par for the course with many reds from Puglia. What I found attractive about this wine was its clean, dry finish. Many Salice Salentino's come across a bit sweet, and showing raisined flavors. This vintage of Castello Monaci exhibits lovely red fruits and spice. The coarse tannins will resolve with time, or simply get lost when teamed with a savory winter stew or pungent cheeses. Rating: 84.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.