Richard Sanford first set foot in the Santa Ynez Valley nearly 40 years ago, hoping to establish a beachhead for Burgundy-style wines along California's cool central coast. His success with delicate, intensely flavored pinot noir and chardonnay over 30-plus years at the Sanford winery led to the viticultural awakening of Santa Barbara County and convinced others of the potential for world-class wines from the region.

Sanford's original stake was in what is now called the Santa Rita Hills, a relatively new appellation carved out of the Santa Ynez Valley. Sanford and his wife Thekla sold the iconic Sanford winery in 2005 and established Alma Rosa, releasing their first wines in 2006. Alma Rosa is dedicated to organic grape growing and sustainable agriculture.

That fine wine flows as well should come as no surprise.

The Santa Rita Hills lie west of the village of Buellton and U.S. 101, along the road to the sea. The cooling breezes from the Pacific lengthen the growing season and provide ideal conditions for growing aromatic grape varieties to produce delicate fine wines. Not everyone uses the conditions to that advantage, but the Sanfords have maintained their European sensibilities and eschew the overtly fruity, sometimes jammy style that is somewhat common in the wines of the Santa Rita Hills.

I recently tasted six new releases and was impressed with the restraint and balance of the lineup. All the wines have more than enough fruit, but you will notice the presence of minerals and juicy acidity, elements that are tuned more to the European palate than those of the New World.

This is an emerging trend in California, though it still takes courage to turn away from the "blockbuster" model and embrace finesse when the major wine publications appear to punish wines that lack power by awarding them lower scores. Richard Sanford demonstrated long ago, however, that he was more than willing to take the road less traveled to fulfill his personal vision.

The Alma Rosa wines:

Pinot Noir 2006 La Encantada Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills ($49) — Pinot like this is one of the reasons, in fact the primary reason, that wine connoisseurs are so excited about the potential of the Santa Rita Hills, a very cold part of Santa Barbara County that was once under the umbrella of the Santa Ynez Valley. Pinot noir thrives there, producing wines of exceptional concentration and brightness, with heady aromatics. Alma Rosa's La Encantada is one of them. The '06 is rich and ripe, yet beautifully balanced. It shows ripe red fruits, a lovely floral element, and hints of earth and spice, and firm tannins that should melt away with another year or so in the bottle. Rating: 94.

Pinot Noir 2006, Santa Rita Hills ($36) — This unusual pinot is dark and earthy, with a charred, smoky nuance that is as intriguing as it is surprising. Well balanced and broad across the palate, with persistence of flavor and a long, spicy finish. The tannins are firm, but should resolve nicely over the next few years. Rating: 87.

Chardonnay 2006 El Jabali Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills ($30) — I would add this chardonnay to the short list of exceptional California chardonnays that are made to emphasize minerality as much as fruit. Think Kistler, Nickel & Nickel and Patz & Hall. This wine fits nicely in that league, particularly if you're from the growing school of wine enthusiasm that has grown weary of the sameness of those celebrated "fat" California chards. El Jabali shows a well-defined lemon creme aroma profile, with hints of vanilla spice, mouthwatering acidity and an inviting minerality. Rating: 93.

Chardonnay 2007, Santa Barbara County ($18) — Fans of unoaked or lightly oaked chardonnay may find this just the ticket for an old-fashioned clambake, where the food dominates and the wines are meant to complement the main event. It's light in style, crisp and fresh, showing notes of pippin apple and citrus, with a long, crisp finish. Very food friendly. Rating: 87.

Pinot Gris 2007, Santa Barbara County ($18) — The pinot gris is a study in delicacy without sacrificing intensity. A subtle floral note gives way to aromas of melon and pear, but the overriding character of this wine is defined by the strong impression of minerals, and a clean, bracing finish. Rating: 91.

Pinot Blanc 2006, Santa Rita Hills ($18) — What comes to mind immediately after a first sip of Alma Rosa's superb Pinot Blanc is this simple question: Why can't everyone produce Pinot Blanc like this? Not even in its native Alsace region is Pinot Blanc always this successful. Alma Rosa's '06 is the perfect fit between a round, mouth-filling chardonnay and the lean, crisp lines of sauvignon, albarino and muscadet. It's fresh and clean, with bracing acidity and notes of lemon creme and citrus, with a hint of toasted brioche. It's delicate, mineral-driven and delicious. Rating: 90.

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

King Estate 2007 Pinot Gris, Oregon ($17) — With a lovely floral nose and the aromas of fresh lime and melon, the King Estate Pinot Gris is another in a long line of very good vintages from this outstanding Oregon producer. King Estate's basic (there is a reserve bottling) Pinot Gris has always been fairly simple, but delicious in a straightforward fashion. It's clean and refreshing and pairs nicely with steamed shellfish and simple preparations of grillled fish or sushi. Rating: 88.

TASTING NOTES

Franciscan 2006 "Cuvee Sauvage" Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($40) — Franciscan's Cuvee Sauvage has been consistent in recent years as one of the stellar Chardonnays of California, a wine that bridges the divide between the cult of warm, rich, volumptuous Chardonnay and those that deliver firm structure and minerality. Cuvee Sauvage does both, making it a triumph of viticulture and winemaking. A wonderful whiff of lemon creme and butterscotch on the nose raises the specter of perhaps an overripe powerhouse, but on the palate there is a bright beam of acidity that knifes through the richness. Minerality and spice emerge on the backend of this superb Napa Chard. Rating: 93.

Patz & Hall 2006 Chardonnay, Hyde Vineyard, Carneros ($55) — Patz & Hall's Hyde Chardonnay from '06 is yet another success from this stellar Carneros vineyard. Still young and tight, the signature elements of lemon cream, spice and hazelnut are a bit muted at this stage but it's abundantly clear they merely require a bit more bottle age. This vintage shows measured oak notes and a scintillating thread of minerality that offers the promise of spectacular evolution. Patience will be rewarded. Rating: 93.

Iron Horse 2006 Chardonnay, Corral Vineyard, Green Valley ($45) — Iron Horse's Corral Vineyard Chardonnay is striking for its minerality and well measured oak. In the past, some chards from this elegant Sonoma winery have seemed manipulated and wood dominated, but this one's positively brilliant. It shows juicy stone fruit aromas, a hint of lemon custard and notes of brioche and spice. Beautifully structured, it will improve with another three to five years in the bottle, although most of it will likely be consumed too young — and with great enthusiasm. Rating: 93.

Marc Kreydenweiss 2006 Riesling-Pinot Gris "L'Ame de la Terre" Val d'Eleon, France ($36) — Few vignerons in the Alsace region produce dry wines with as much depth and complexity as Kreydenweiss. His Val d'Eleon is a blend of equal parts riesling and pinot gris and delivers the heady aromas of a good riesling — minerals, honey, brioche — combined with the ripe pear and melon flavors that pinot gris can bring. Though the alcohol level is modest (12.5 percent) there is richness and weight on the palate to stand up to strong flavors from the kitchen, and the balance and power is there to suggest this wine will improve in the bottle over the next seven-to-ten years. Rating: 92.

Morgan 2005 Syrah "Tierra Mar", Santa Lucia Highlands ($40) — This is a beautiful brew Morgan has concocted. Tierra Mar is a selection of the best barrels from all of the Morgan syrah of 2005, and I would have to say the cellar master chose his barrels well. This is an exceptional red, and one of the better California syrahs I've tasted this year — certainly one of the most complex. On the nose it gives off a sweet violet scent and a hint of blueberry. The palate is one surprise after another, from seductive white pepper to earthy, gamey, smoked meat nuances that a syrah lover could mistake for the northern Rhone. It's rich and concentrated without being heavy, and the firm tannins suggest a long life. Rating: 92.

MacMurray Ranch 2007 Pinot Gris, Sonoma Coast ($20) — MacMurray has been one of the standard-bearers for pinot gris in California, which lately has been catching up to Oregon in terms of prowess with this grape. The '07 MacMurray is floral and seductive, with complexity that is uncommon in a domestic pinot gris. This one shows succulent stone fruit on the front end, but finishes with clean citrus notes and bright acidity balanced by the presence of a bit of residual sugar, although I would describe the wine as dry. Rating: 91.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.