There is nothing controversial about the use of oak barrels in the production of fine table wine. Maturation in wood, from as little as a few months to as much as a few years, softens tannic red wines and enhances complexity. White wines experience similar benefits that make the use of oak barrels an enticing proposition for any winemaker.

This is most evident in the production of chardonnay, which is often barrel-fermented and barrel-aged. Aromas of vanilla, brown spice, toast, and pu ...

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