With pinot noir on the lips, literally, of most wine lovers, prices for this most difficult-to-make wine have skyrocketed.

For decades, this light red wine — perhaps the complete opposite of today's cabernet sauvignon — was known to be the offspring of petulant grapes that didn't take kindly to being grown in warm areas. In the last 20 years of so, most warm-climate pinot noir plantings have been removed or converted to grapes that like warmth.

And even though growin ...

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