Rose is a wine that typically generates sneers from wine snobs. Even white wine comes in for some denigration, so you can imagine how disrespectful some people can be about pink.

Once, during a very hot luncheon with a man who makes a rather high-alcohol chardonnay, the conversation drifted to rose. I asked him if he ever considered making one.

“Rose?” he virtually shrieked. “I can't sell rose,” and he spat out the word as if it were an epithet. “No one can sell rose.”

He ...

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