PAMPLONA, Spain — The Kingdom of Navarre is famous for many things. The festival of San Fermin, for example, when raging bulls run through the streets to the delight, and sometimes sheer terror, of tens of thousands of tourists.

It was also the birthplace of the Basque culture, and was once ruled (for 400 years, no less) by various kings of France. And Hemingway was here, of course.

Seldom mentioned is the wine of Navarre. This is the land of rose, mostly produced from the ...

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