"I have one free day in Copenhagen and I want to do a Hans Christian Andersen tour," I said to the concierge at my hotel. He gave me a look that I couldn't interpret; it either said "Ah, a common request," or "Why would a grown man want to do such a tour?"

He told me a tour group would be gathering the next morning at the Tourist Information office and I should go along. It sounded like a great idea, so the next morning I arrived at the Tourist Office only ...

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