The Alabama port city of Mobile reveals a surprising melange of architectural styles and historical periods, peppered with several firsts and lasts, plus imaginative cuisine. The downtown area blends modern buildings with Civil War remnants and homes recalling New Orleans on its Government Street.

Fine buildings have frequently been recycled, now harboring fascinating museums. Some reveal matters of shame, some of pride. For example, in the 1856-building housing the Museum of Mobile, v ...

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