On my first visit to Vietnam in 1998, I had an epiphany. Vietnam is a country, not a war. A family member returning from a visit urged me, "Go to Vietnam now, it is changing fast. It is the way Thailand and Singapore use to be." I did, and returned again in 2009 curious to see what changes had taken place since my first visit.

HANOI

In 1998, the streets were a sea of bicycles. Women elegant in traditional ao dais pedaled 1950s-style bicycles and every conceivab ...

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