"We splash on, hour after hour, up and down the barrancas, walking as best we can on the slippery mud left behind by the rains, all the while slipping, sliding, and slamming our toes into rocks, as we walk through the night. Even if we wanted to, we couldn't stop for a break: There is not one dry square inch in this ink-black water world at our feet. Besides, the temperature has dropped sharply, and it is too cold to stop. Every time we slow, I get the shivers."

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